Are you curious about how to give your beloved pet the best chance to thrive and grow? Much like humans, pets can benefit from supplements tailored to support their growth and overall well-being. Whether you have a playful pup or a curious kitty, understanding the ins and outs of pet supplements and their role in nurturing your furry companion's growth journey is key. 

Here, we'll delve into the world of pet supplements, exploring their benefits, types, and how they can contribute to your pet's vitality and longevity.

What Are Pet Supplements?

Pet supplements are akin to the vitamins and minerals humans take to maintain optimal health. They come in various forms such as powders, chews or liquids, and are formulated with specific nutrients that may be lacking in your pet's diet or require supplementation for enhanced well-being.

Supplements can contain a variety of ingredients, including:

Vitamins: Essential for various bodily functions, including metabolism, immunity and overall health. According to one supplement review, vitamin supplements "offer a comprehensive blend of essential vitamins and minerals tailored specifically for your pet's nutritional needs. Packed with vital nutrients, they promote overall well-being and vitality. When minerals such as calcium and phosphorus are added, multivitamins ensure your pet maintains optimal health and vitality throughout their life."

Minerals: Important for bone health, muscle function and other physiological processes.

Omega-3 Fatty Acids: Known for their anti-inflammatory properties and benefits for skin, coat and joint health.

Probiotics: Beneficial bacteria that support digestive health and immune function.

Antioxidants: Help protect cells from damage caused by free radicals and oxidative stress.

How Supplements Can Support Your Pet's Growth

1. Nourishing Bone and Joint Health

During their formative years, pets, and especially puppies, undergo rapid bone growth, requiring ample support for optimal development. Supplements enriched with calcium and phosphorus can play a vital role in fortifying bone density, especially crucial for large breed dogs prone to joint issues later in life. Additionally, glucosamine and chondroitin supplements can help support joint health and mobility, particularly in senior pets or those with arthritis.

2. Strengthening Immunity

A robust immune system is paramount for warding off illnesses. Supplements containing essential vitamins (such as vitamin C and vitamin E) and antioxidants bolster your pet's immune response, empowering them to combat infections and diseases effectively. Additionally, immune-boosting herbs like echinacea and astragalus may be included in certain supplements to further enhance immune function.

3. Fostering Healthy Skin and Coat

A glossy coat and supple skin are telltale signs of a pet in prime condition. Omega-3 fatty acids, abundantly found in certain supplements (such as fish oil or flaxseed oil), work wonders in moisturizing your pet's skin and promoting the growth of luxuriant fur, ensuring they look and feel their best. Moreover, supplements containing biotin, zinc and other nutrients support skin health and can alleviate issues like dryness, itching and excessive shedding.

4. Supporting Digestive Health

Just like humans, pets can experience digestive disturbances that impact their overall well-being. Probiotic supplements contain beneficial bacteria that aid in maintaining a healthy gut flora, facilitating smooth digestion and minimizing discomfort for your furry friend. Additionally, digestive enzymes may be included in some supplements to help break down food and improve nutrient absorption, particularly in pets with sensitive stomachs or digestive disorders.

Selecting the Perfect Supplements for Your Pet

Now that you're acquainted with the benefits of supplements for your pet's growth, it's crucial to make informed choices when selecting the right ones. Here's how.

Consult Your Veterinarian: Your veterinarian is as a trusted ally in your pet's health journey. Seek their guidance to determine the most suitable supplements based on factors like age, breed, size and any existing health concerns. They can also provide personalized recommendations and dosage guidelines tailored to your pet's specific needs.

Prioritize Quality: Opt for supplements crafted by reputable manufacturers using premium-grade ingredients. While budget-friendly options may seem tempting, compromising on quality doesn't save money in the long run. Look for supplements that undergo rigorous testing for safety, purity and potency and avoid products containing artificial additives, fillers or unnecessary ingredients.

Consider Your Pet's Preferences: Some pets may be picky eaters or have dietary restrictions, making it challenging to administer certain supplements. Choose supplements with palatable flavors or formulations that can be easily mixed with food or water to ensure the supplements are being consumed. This will minimize stress for both you and your pet.

Monitor Your Pet's Response: After introducing a new supplement, monitor your pet closely for any changes in behavior, appetite or overall well-being. Keep track of any improvements or adverse reactions and communicate regularly with your veterinarian to make necessary adjustments to your pet's supplement regimen as needed.

Adhere to Dosage Recommendations: Overzealous supplementation can do more harm than good. Always adhere to the recommended dosage guidelines provided on the supplement packaging to safeguard your pet's health. Resist the temptation to exceed the recommended dose in hopes of achieving faster results, as this can lead to nutrient imbalances, toxicity or other health complications.

Conclusion

In essence, supplements serve as allies in nurturing your pet's growth and overall health. Whether it's fortifying bone strength, bolstering immunity, enhancing skin and coat condition, or promoting digestive wellness, the right supplements can make a world of difference in your furry companion's life. 

Some bunnies seem to want every treat in the house, every veggie you’re preparing and every fruit that gets within smelling range. So it’s important for their humans to learn what rabbits can safely eat because while they’re great at telling us what they want to eat, they are not good at knowing what they should eat. And even if they knew what they should eat, they wouldn’t care.

This post will explain what fresh fruits and veggies are good for bunnies and what fruits and veggies they should stay away from. Note that this information applies only to rabbits 12 weeks of age and older. Baby bunnies have very sensitive digestive systems and fruits and veggies are not good for them until they reach 12 weeks old. Avoid feeding fruits and vegetables until that time.

Let’s start with a common food question.

Can Rabbits Eat Mango?

Yes, they can eat mango—as a treat, it’s very good for them. Mangoes are high in vitamin C and also provide Vitamin A, B6, E and K. Mangoes are also high in minerals such as folate, copper, potassium, niacin and calcium. In addition, mangoes are a source of fibre, which is good for your rabbit’s digestive system.

That said, mango should be a special snack only. Mangoes are high in sugar and acid. If rabbits eat too much of it, they could get stomach problems and diarrhea, so only give mango in small amounts every few days to be safe. Pet owners should avoid giving rabbits dried mango or mango juice—both are too high in sugar to be good for your bunny.

What Parts of a Mango Can Rabbits Eat?

Some rabbits enjoy mango skins, which makes mangoes an easy snack because you don’t even have to peel them. If your rabbit doesn’t like the taste of them, they’ll just leave the skin and eat the fruit. The skins are safe and contain even more fibre than the fruit. Just wash the mango thoroughly with soap and water before you feed it to wash off any residual pesticides. 

The pit isn’t good for rabbits to eat, so don’t let your bunny chew on it. Although the stem is ok, they’re not likely to eat it. Mango leaves are considered safe, although you probably won’t find them on supermarket mangoes. 

What Fruits Can Rabbits Have?

Rabbits can eat lots of different fruits besides mangoes, including apples, apricots, bananas, berries and cherries, clementines, currents, grapes, kiwi, melons (including watermelon), nectarines, oranges, papayas, peaches, pears, pineapples, plums and star fruit.

Because fruit has such a high sugar content, give it as a treat a couple of times a week. Feed 1-2 tablespoons once or twice per week, depending on the weight of your rabbit. You can feed one fruit at a time, or make a little mixed fruit salad to liven up the routine. 

When introducing a new fruit, go slowly. Start with a teaspoon of the new fruit, wait 24 hours to see how your rabbit’s body will react to it, and if no health issues crop up, increase the amount from there. Don’t introduce a bunch of new fruits (or any foods!) in a row. Always give your rabbit’s digestive system at least a few days to adjust before you add anything new.

What Parts of a Fruit Can Rabbits Eat?

Fruits and skins are both good for rabbits, with the exception of skins that humans can’t eat, like pineapple skins. Avoid giving your rabbit pits, seeds and stems. Don’t give your rabbits fruit juice, either—it’s too high in sugar.

What Fruits Aren’t Good for Rabbits?

Avoid rhubarb. It’s very high in oxalic acid, which is a compound that’s toxic to rabbits. It can prevent the body from absorbing minerals like calcium, as well as increase their risk of kidney stones and kidney disease over time.

Why Should I Limit Fruit in My Rabbit’s Diet?

Fruits are high in sugar, which isn’t good for bunnies in large quantities. The House Rabbit Society (HRS) explains that rabbits easily digest fructose, so they’re likely to gain too much weight if they eat a lot of it. Obese rabbits are more prone to cardiovascular disease and arthritis.

HRS states that “sugars and starches that the small intestine can’t digest will wind up in the cecum. If they arrive in large quantities in the cecum, they encourage the overgrowth of toxin-producing bacteria with consequent illness to the rabbit.” While some vets dispute this idea, it’s generally agreed that high amounts of sugar do not make for a nutritionally balanced diet. 

What Vegetables Should Rabbits Eat?

Leafy greens should be a staple of your rabbit’s diet and are the second most important source of nutrition for your rabbit, after hay. Leafy greens your rabbit should eat every day include: arugula, Boston lettuce, butter lettuce, chicory, dandelion greens, kale, red lettuce, spring greens and watercress.

Some leafy greens are higher in oxalic acid, so vets often recommend that these greens be fed sparingly or rotated in and out of the rabbit’s diet. These include beet greens, mustard greens, radish tops, spinach and Swiss chard.

Rabbits should eat a variety of raw, fresh non-leafy veggies every day, too. These can include bell or sweet peppers, bok choy, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, celery, cucumber, endive, fennel, rapini, sprouts, tomatoes, watercress, wheatgrass and zucchini. Mix up what you give your rabbit to ensure they’re getting a range of nutrients.

Fresh (not dried) herbs like basil, borage, cilantro, dill, mint and parsley are also very healthy and rabbits go wild for them.

You can feed pumpkin and squash, as well, but they’re higher in sugar and therefore better as an occasional treat. Only feed your rabbit squashes that humans can eat—don’t feed them gourds.

Go easy with vegetables in the brassica family (that means broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collard greens, kale, rapini and turnips) if your rabbit seems sensitive to them. These veggies have a high sulfur content that can give rabbits gas (like they do in humans).

Feed your bunny 1 cup of fresh veggies per 2 pounds of body weight every day, with at least ¾ of that amount coming from leafy greens. As with fruit, introduce any new vegetable slowly so as not to upset your bunny’s digestive system.

What Parts of a Vegetable Can Rabbits Eat?

A good rule of thumb is to give your bunnies the parts of the veggie that you would eat. The exception here is the tops of carrots and radishes—they’re very good for rabbits. 

Depending on the vegetable, the stalks might be too hard for them to digest. Cabbage, for instance, has a tough stalk, so give your rabbit the leaves instead. Roots, stems and seeds generally shouldn’t be fed.

What Veggies Should Rabbits Not Eat?

Rabbits should stay away from avocados, beans, chives, corn, garlic, iceberg lettuce, leeks, legumes, mushrooms, mustard greens, onions, peas, potatoes and yams. Here’s why.

Avocados, garlic, chives, leeks and onions all contain compounds that are highly toxic to rabbits. Beans, peas and legumes are high in carbohydrates, in addition to containing levels of phosphorus and calcium that are too high for a rabbit’s GI system. 

Mushrooms and iceberg lettuce can contain toxins that can harm a rabbit if a rabbit eats enough of them. And finally, potatoes and yams are too high in calories and starch. In addition, potatoes contain a compound called solanine that can be toxic if enough is ingested.

Conclusion—What Should Rabbits Eat?

Most of your rabbit’s diet should consist of good quality grass or timothy hay. If you feed unlimited hay and fresh water, plenty of leafy greens, some non-leafy vegetables and a little fruit for a snack, you’re giving your bunny a diet they can thrive on. 

Feature image: Sandy Millar; Image 1: Nancy Mure

Written by: Anne Elliot 

In short, guinea pigs can and do eat broccoli stems. Broccoli is very good for their digestion because it’s high in fiber and very good for their teeth because it’s a crunchy veggie that helps keep teeth worn down to a healthy size. It’s also low in sugar, which makes it a better choice than many other snacks.

The best thing about broccoli, though, is its high vitamin C content (more on vitamin C below). Broccoli actually has more vitamin C than an orange—91.3 mg per 100 grams! You don’t need to cook it—in fact, it’s better for your cavy if you don’t—and you don’t need to prepare it in any special way. Florets, stems, leaves—guinea pigs typically love it all.

If you’re introducing broccoli to your guinea pigs for the first time, give only a small amount and monitor them for any changes in their digestion. You’ll especially want to be on the lookout for bloating or signs that they’re uncomfortable. 

Too much broccoli can cause gas, which can be extremely painful for guinea pigs. Bloating can become a very serious condition, so keep a close eye when introducing this (or any new food). 

Start with a chunk that will fit in a teaspoon and if that seems to go down ok, you can slowly increase it to about a tablespoon. If you’re concerned about feeding too much, give broccoli 2-3 times a week as a special snack.

Have more questions about feeding your guinea pig? Well, follow me, because we might have the answers here.

What Do Guinea Pigs Eat?

Veterinarians Laurie Hess and Rick Axelson explain that there are two essential things guinea pigs need in their diets. “The most critical aspect of the diet of guinea pigs,” they say, “is their requirement for vitamin C.” The second essential is “unlimited amounts of hay.”

Hay is the biggest part of a guinea pig’s diet. Vets usually recommend a grassy hay like timothy or orchard grass. Grassy hay gives guinea pigs the fibre they need, as well as protein, vitamins and minerals. It’s low in calories, which helps cavies keep a healthy weight. And the constant nibbling helps keep teeth in good shape.

Like people, cavies don’t make their own vitamin C, so they need to get it from other food sources. Hay doesn’t provide enough vitamin C, however, so guinea pig owners usually feed vitamin C-fortified commercial pellets and fresh veggies. 

Even though it’s common to feed commercial pellets to guinea pigs, guinea pigs don’t really need pellets. A good commercial food will offer a balance of nutrients, including vitamin C, but it’s not difficult to create a balanced diet for a guinea pig without them.

Many fruits and veggies are high in vitamin C, broccoli included. They also have a ton of other nutrients that cavies need. The following are just some of the veggies that are good for cavies to eat on a daily basis:

• Leafy greens such as kale, rocket, chard and Romaine lettuce
• Bell peppers
• Snow peas
• Cabbage
• Endive
• Squashes 
• Tomatoes
• Asparagus
• Fresh herbs like cilantro, dill, parsley and basil
• Broccoli and cauliflower
• Carrots

Guinea pigs can eat any part of these veggies, including edible stems, greens and tops. Cavies also love fruit, but fruit should be a special treat (more on treats below).

To ensure guinea pigs get the right amount of vitamin C in a form they can absorb, owners will usually also feed liquid vitamin C or vitamin C tablets. That’s because vitamin C has a short shelf life, so the amount contained in enriched pellets can quickly decrease. 

Plus, it’s often too tricky to try to figure out exactly how much a guinea pig has absorbed from the veggies they’ve eaten that day, especially if someone has more than one pig.

What Foods Are Bad for Guinea Pigs?

Hess and Axelson suggest avoiding oats, seeds and nuts, as well as dry cereals because “they are too high in carbohydrates and fat.” Dried beans and peas aren’t good for cavies, either.

Onions, leeks and chives are also bad for guinea pigs, as well as mushrooms, avocados, potatoes and many garden flowers.

Legume hays like alfalfa should be avoided unless a vet recommends it. Alfalfa is very high in calcium and protein, so it’s generally too rich for guinea pigs to eat. Vets might suggest a legume hay for pregnant guinea pigs, pups or guinea pigs who are ill and need the extra calories and nutrients. For others, however, the extra calcium and protein could lead to digestive upset, kidney or bladder stones.

Guinea pigs should eat pellets that are timothy-based rather than alfalfa-based, too. Alfalfa-based pellets tend to be higher in calories, as well as calcium, and can raise the risk of bladder stones. 

Processed foods, sugary snacks, dairy and chocolate also go on the “do not feed” list.

How Much Should You Feed Your Guinea Pig?

For as excited as they get to see food, guinea pigs aren’t prone to overeating. You should leave hay out 24/7 so they can pick when they want to. 

While you’ll see many different estimates of how much hay your guinea pig should be eating, the truth is they really can’t have too much, so keep the hay rack full. Remember that hay should make up the bulk of your guinea pig’s diet, so don’t overdo it on pellets and treats and your guinea pig should eat all the hay they need.

The label on your commercial pellets will tell you how much you should be giving your guinea pig every day, but it’s common for them to get about 1/8 of a cup per day.

For vitamin C intake, 10-50mg/day is a common range. Pregnant, sick or older guinea pigs typically need more than healthy, active ones. Veterinarian Heidi Hoefer recommends 5-10 mg per day as a baseline and 25-50 mg per day when an animal is stressed, sick or pregnant.

1/2 to 1 cup of veggies daily is plenty for a guinea pig. The majority of those veggies should be leafy greens, with brightly-coloured veggies second in importance. Veggies that are high in sugar, like carrots or sweet potato should be fed less often. Other veggies that are high in oxalates, like spinach and parsley, should be fed sparingly to reduce the risk of bladder stones.

Give fruit in small amounts a few times a week. A few tablespoons of a fruit (the equivalent of an orange wedge or a few blueberries, for example) is lots.

What Are Some Signs of Nutritional Deficiency?

If your guinea pig gets unlimited hay, pellets and a big variety of veggies, they’re probably not going to be malnourished. That said, signs that your feeding program isn’t giving your cavies the right nutrition include coarse fur, weight loss, digestive upset, bloating, diarrhea, constipation, loss of appetite and loss of energy. 

Any of these could also be signs that something else is going on, however. Talk to your vet if your cavy experiences these symptoms.

Hess and Axelson describe the signs of vitamin C deficiency. They say a “guinea pig that has a rough hair coat, is off food, has diarrhea, is reluctant to walk, perhaps appears to be painful, has swollen feet or joints, or has hemorrhages and ulcers on its gums or skin, is likely to be deficient in vitamin C.” They recommend taking your pig to the veterinarian if you notice any of those signs.

What Are Some Good Treats for Guinea Pigs?

Like many mammals, piggies tend to have strong preferences, so they will tell you what counts as a treat to them. Many guinea pigs love herbs like basil, cilantro and mint. Dandelion greens are a popular treat, as are nasturtiums. Carrots are some cavies’ absolute favourites.

Fruit is a good bet, although like many treats, too much isn’t good for them. The sugar in fruit can cause diarrhea, but in moderation, fruits that are high in vitamin C (like citrus fruits) are an especially good choice. 

Store-bought snacks often aren’t good for cavies because they’re too high in fat and sugar and contain low-quality, artificial ingredients. They also tend to be expensive, so save your money and prepare a tiny salad of fresh herbs instead.

Guinea pigs are born with their eyes open, but how do they see the world? 

For all the time humans have spent with them, there are still a lot of questions when it comes to guinea pigs and we don’t always have answers about how their adorable bodies work. Researchers have generally been so busy performing experiments on them that they haven’t gained a lot of information about them.

Here’s what we do know, though—in a nutshell, they probably don’t see any better in the dark than we do.

How Well Do Guinea Pigs See in General?

Guinea pigs seem to see ok, but they see differently than humans do. Since their eyes are set more to the sides of their heads, they have good peripheral vision. They can see an incredible 340 degrees around, which gives them a much larger field of vision than we have.

That said, their eye position gives them poor depth perception. For depth perception to work, an animal needs binocular vision; that is, they need to see the world through both eyes at a time. 

Since guinea pigs see most of the world out of each eye, independently, it’s probably harder for them to judge how far away things are or how far apart things are from each other. In addition, they can only see 3-5 feet, so long-range vision isn’t really their forte.

That might surprise you if you’ve ever hung out with guinea pigs and noticed their unerring instincts for knowing exactly when humans enter the room with favourite treats. Or noticed that your guinea pigs seem to find their way around their cage just fine at night.

But that’s because guinea pigs have adapted to use other senses that are a little better than their vision.

How Do Guinea Pigs Navigate the Dark?

Despite not seeing very well in the dark, guinea pigs really do manage to get around. They can find their way in the dark thanks to a few special traits that are more effective than their vision.

For example, what the guinea pig lacks in vision, they more than make up for in spatial memory. While it’s usually rats and mice who are made to run mazes in labs, guinea pigs have also demonstrated that they’re handy with spatial learning tasks.

One study found that domestic guinea pigs actually outperform their cousins, the wild cavy, when tested on their spatial learning abilities.

Guinea pigs also have something scientists call “vibrissae” on their muzzles. We know them better as whiskers. These are actually specialized hairs that have high numbers of nerve cells surrounding the hair follicle. 

Guinea pigs use their whiskers to feel their way around, in much the same way we use our hands. Much like our sense of touch, whiskers help a guinea pig determine the size, shape and texture of things around them, which helps them forage and locate objects.

Whiskers are so sensitive that they can feel vibrations in the air, which tells cavies if something is moving nearby, like a predator (or a sassy friend who’s about to ambush them).

In addition to this extra sense of touch, guinea pigs have incredible senses of smell and hearing. This won’t come as a surprise to guinea pig owners, who have to work awfully hard to hide the rustling sound of a treat bag or the smell of a freshly cut carrot.

These finely honed senses don’t just help cavies find food, although that’s probably most of what your piggie is using them for. They help guinea pigs know when threats are coming close and help them identify friends and foes among their social groups. 

Are Guinea Pigs Nocturnal?

Guinea pigs aren’t nocturnal—exactly what they are is a question under debate, though. The Merck Veterinary Manual says guinea pigs are diurnal, meaning they’re active during the day.

Other people say they’re crepuscular, which is what we call animals who are active at dawn and twilight. In a 1994 study on guinea pig vision, however, researchers Gerald H. Jacobs and Jess F. Deegan II explain that guinea pigs were crepuscular in the wild, but they’re not in the lab. 

In the lab, they say, guinea pigs “may display essentially continuous activity” whether it’s constantly light or constantly dark. 

That tracks with a lot of guinea pig owners’ experiences. Plenty of owners are woken every night by the sound of piggies playing, munching and exploring when it seems like by anyone’s reasonable standards, they should be asleep. 

According to the Smithsonian, guinea pigs spend 4% of their days sleeping, and sleep only for about 6 minutes at a time. Hence, all the micro-naps your piggie takes during the day. But if it seems to you like your cavies are up all. the. time., you’re right. They are.

Do Guinea Pigs Need a Light at Night?

As you can tell, even though your piggie might be active at night, and even though their vision isn’t great at night, they don’t need a light to help them. In fact, it’s better to let them spend the night without one. 

Cavies are prey animals, and they feel safest when they’re huddled away. One of the reasons they love their tunnels and their blanket forts so much is that it’s dark in there, so keep the lights off at night so your guinea pig can feel safer and less stressed.

Do Guinea Pigs See Colours?

They do see colours. Jacobs and Deegan’s research proved that guinea pigs are dichromats—that is, they see two colours (blues and greens to be exact). To give you a comparison, humans are trichromats, which means we see three colours (blues and greens and also reds). If we were to look at the world through a guinea pig’s eyes, it would look like someone had put a blue filter all over everything.

Monochromats see in black and white, along with all the greys in between. Most mammals, in fact, have dichromatic vision, including cats and dogs. Many primates, including humans, have additional cones in our eyes that give us trichomatic vision. But humans don’t have the most advanced vision in the animal world. 

Most birds and fish, as well as lizards, have cones that give them tetrachromatic vision. That means they can see blues, greens, reds and ultraviolet. And the mantis shrimp has 12 different colour receptors in their eyes, so the world of colours that we see is not nearly all the colours of the rainbow.

Conclusion

We hope that answers some of your questions about these neat little creatures and the incredible ways they’ve adapted to move around in the dark, keep themselves safe from predators and sense when cilantro is about.

There’s a whole, wide world of eco-friendly pet toys, but it’s not as simple as it should be to locate toys that are both high quality and low environmental impact. To help guide you, we bring you these reviews of sustainable pet toys. 

We’ll give you some info about a toy in different categories, sum up what other people have been saying about it so you don’t have to sift through tons of reviews, and share whatever details we can find on how environmentally friendly these toys and their makers actually are.

We’ll start with cats at the top and then move on to dogs, so feel free to skip the first half if you don’t have feline friends to buy for.

Let’s get started.

Disclosure: This page contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, we earn a commission from qualifying purchases.

Catnip Toys for Cats

You can’t go wrong with a classic catnip toy, and SPOT Ethical Pet’s Fish with Catnip is a solid choice. These bright, cheerful felt toys come in a few different varieties, so if you don’t like the fish, you can choose a mouse or a bug instead. 

These fish largely have great reviews. People especially loved how cute and soft they are. Many people reported that this became their cat’s favourite toy. More than a few reviewers had quality control issues, with some saying their cats had taken the toy apart in a matter of hours. Best to check the toy over before giving it to your cat.

Ethical Products explains that their New Jersey facility runs on 100% solar power. The company belongs to the Pet Industry Sustainability Coalition, and sometimes uses recycled and natural materials for their toys. Their website says that they plan to develop “new eco-friendly materials” to use in products in the future.

Wand Toys for Cats

Honest Pet Products’ Eco Kitty Catcher is a great alternative to plastic wand toys. This isn’t a flashy product with bells and shiny bits, but the toy at the end of the string is a cute, 6-inch felt worm that’s anti-microbial and anti-bacterial, which is fantastic.

This toy hasn’t had tons of reviews, but other people who used it really like it. Aside from the ethical features, they appreciated the toy’s durability and quality. People say their cats love it. Some say the cats love it a bit too much, and they have to keep it locked away in between play sessions so their cats don’t devour the toy.

The pole is made of bamboo, and the string is hemp twine. The toy itself is wool dyed with vegetable dyes, making the entire toy biodegradable. The company was featured in O-Magazine’s “Eco Edition” and states that it’s committed to using natural materials.

Chase Toys for Cats

For chasing, Comfy Pet Supplies offers Wool Felt Ball Toys in a variety of colours. They come in a 6-pack, which is perfect if you have multiple cats or cats who like to chase their toys into unreachable corners under the stove.

These are well-reviewed toys. People generally thought they were well-made and had no issues with the balls unravelling. They loved that they were quiet, durable and easily washable. Some reviewers received different products when they bought them from Amazon—products that had foam cores. Others had issues with felt shedding, and still others thought they were too big.

The balls are made from 100% New Zealand wool, hand-felted by women artisans in Nepal. The dyes are non-toxic and azo free. On the down side, I couldn’t find out very much about the company, so we have to take them at their word, which isn’t ideal.

Toy Mice for Cats

For cats who love toy mice, Catit offers a Seagrass Mouse made from all-natural materials. It has a woven surface that’s extremely inviting for cat claws, and feathers as a tail for extra enticement.

Most people who reviewed this toy seem to like it. Their cats enjoyed the texture of it, while the reviewers enjoyed knowing that if their cat ingested a bit of the seagrass, it wouldn’t harm them. Some people found that the grass unravelled as their cat played with the toy, and thought a stronger glue was needed. Most reviewers found their cats could pull the feathers out easily.

The seagrass twine is a nice change from polyester and synthetic materials. Catit, as a company, doesn’t feature a lot of information on their website, but seems to have an interest in sustainability—they offer a range of “green” products, from all natural toys to insect protein-based cat food.

Feather Toys for Cats

It’s hard for cats to resist a feather toy, and Freddy’s Feather, from the company From the Field is a good one. It’s a wand that features a twirling mechanism so the feather mimics birds in flight when you tug on it.

Others who bought this toy loved the way the toy moved and the level of interest it got from their cats. They also loved that the feathers are dye-free and that the construction was cat-safe. More than a few folks warned, however, that the string on this toy is prone to breakage.

This toy is 95% biodegradable and made almost entirely of natural materials, such as a hemp string, a wood handle and a cork and feather toy. From the Field itself says it’s dedicated to renewable materials (so hopefully soon it will consider making this wand 100% biodegradable).

Chew Toys for Dogs

By now, everyone knows the KONG Classic Dog Toy. What we don’t often hear about is that there are a couple of environmental benefits to this iconic product. There’s a range of sizes and types, so you’re likely to find an option that suits your dog.

These toys are very highly rated. The durability sets them apart, although the design is generally beloved, too. Reviewers say this toy helps solve chewing and behaviour issues as well as boredom. There are some reviewers who felt the toy didn’t perform as they expected, but by and large, it’s a crowd favourite. 

The classic KONG is made from natural rubber. They’re also incredibly durable chew toys, and having to buy fewer of them minimizes waste and resource use. That said, KONG has no stated interest in sustainability, and many of its products wouldn’t make this list.

Rope Toys for Dogs

Rubber Ball on Rope from Beco is a simple toy that’s big on environmental credentials. The toy is just what the name suggests—a rubber ball tied onto a rope, with a few knots for chewing. It comes in small and large sizes, in a few bright colours.

People who have reviewed this item give it high praise. They say their dogs love it, and that it’s like having 2 toys in one. Reviewers say it’s long-lasting, sturdy even with aggressive chewers and easy to clean. Bad reviews of this toy are thin on the ground. Users did warn that the ball doesn’t float, which they found out to their dismay.

Material-wise, the toy is made of natural rubber and recycled cotton. The company, Beco, is deeply invested in caring for the environment, from decarbonizing their operations to choosing ethical supply chain partners to investing in animal welfare and environmental projects.

Balls for Dogs

West Paw Design’s Zogoflex Jive Ball takes the conventional tennis ball up a level, both in durability and sustainability. It comes in a few sizes and colours, has a neat design that makes its bounce less predictable and also floats in water.

This ball gets rave reviews from most buyers. Most reviewers had high praise for how tough this ball was and how well it stands up to abuse. Some, however, thought the ball wasn’t worth the price. Others felt it was too hard and worried about damaging their furniture or their dogs’ mouths. A few others had dogs who chewed through it.

These toys are non-toxic, and used balls can be sent back to West Paw, who will recycle them into new products. West Paw Design is a founding member of the Pet Sustainability Coalition and a Certified B Corporation. Their site suggests their supply chain is chosen for their ethical practices, too.

Plush Toys for Dogs

Plush toys never seem to last long, and if you’re worried about the environmental impact of constantly buying new ones, check out P.L.A.Y.’s Farm Fresh Plush Collection. This is a collection of adorable vegetables with squeakers inside, and feature 100% post-consumer plastic fill and azo-free dye.

Reviews of these toys are more mixed than some of the other options. Some dogs were able to shred them in short order, while other dogs kept them in good repair for a while. Reviewers all noted that their dogs loved them and had an excellent time, even while tearing them up.

P.L.A.Y. is a company that walks the walk where green credentials are concerned. They’re a certified B Corporation, as well as a Green America-certified business. From 100% renewable energy at their headquarters to FSC certified paper packaging, P.L.A.Y. goes beyond just selecting greener materials.

Squeaky Toys for Dogs

You wouldn’t think squeaky toys would be particularly eco-friendly, but Beco has a range of squeaky toys made from recycled plastic, like their George the Giraffe Dog Toy. It comes in a few sizes and has a neat design that makes it easy for dogs to carry around.

Other people who bought this toy report that it’s durable and long-lasting. They liked that the fabric was tough, but still soft enough for their dogs to snuggle with. Some people were disappointed with the product, however, or wished it had held up better.

The shell and stuffing of this toy are made from 100% post-consumer recycled content, as are many of Beco’s products. As we mentioned above, this is a company that puts its money where its mouth is when it comes to creating sustainable toys.

Guide to Choosing Sustainable Pet Toys

Be careful of greenwashing. Just because a company tells you something is sustainable doesn’t mean it is. Pet toy manufacturers aren’t obligated to tell consumers what’s in their products, so a product can be advertised as “green” when it’s patently not. 

That lack of accountability on the part of manufacturers can really muddy the waters for people trying to figure out whether a product is eco-friendly or not. You can simplify that process by finding out two things: what the toy is made of and how it was made. 

Look for toys that are made of natural and renewable materials. Plastics and synthetics are going to be harder on the environment, especially considering you usually can’t recycle pet toys at the end of their lifespans. 

Durability should factor in here, as well. Buying one toy that lasts for a dog’s lifetime is going to result in less waste and fewer associated emissions than if you end up buying a new chew toy every week.

You can look for third-party certification that materials were sustainably harvested. It’s also well within your rights to ask a company to be transparent about their materials, so don’t be afraid to call or message them and ask what’s in a toy. If they can’t tell you, move on.

Research the company that makes the product, too. Try to determine what their manufacturing processes are like. If they have renewable energy, energy efficiency or waste reduction measures in place, they’ll usually put that information on their website—green credentials are valuable for their business.

And finally, it’s good to remember that we can always make toys ourselves. The internet is full of ideas for interesting, safe and easy-to-make toys that we can create with things that are lying around our homes already. 

Repurposed materials that have no transportation emissions associated with them are a very green option, and our pets do not care if our final product is perfect. They just want us to throw it already.

Written by Anne Elliot

This question can quickly get you into a heated debate. There are advocates on both sides of the issue, and each side can feel pretty strongly about their position. 

If you’re on the fence and considering whether to let your cat out, there are some pros and cons to be aware of. In the end, your cat is an individual, so only you can decide if letting your cat outdoors is the best decision for you and your feline friend. This post will try to objectively give you some of the factors to weigh.

Letting Your Cat Outside

Cat owners who let their cats outside suggest that this is the more natural way for them to live. And in fact, until very recently, keeping cats outside, or as indoor-outdoor cats, was the norm in North America (it still is in the U.K. and other parts of the world).

In 1947, however, Edward Lowe accidentally invented kitty litter. He was hoping to sell granulated clay as nesting material for poultry, but clay proved better for cats than chickens. Having a product that kept cat litter odours down made keeping cats inside more attractive. That invention, however, did nothing to change cats’ evolutionary behaviours.

Proponents of letting cats outside often explain that they want to give their cats a life that includes what a cat has evolved to need, including not just food and shelter, but exploration, hunting and plenty of exercise and mental stimulation.

There are both mental and physical health aspects to these arguments. Veterinarian Douglas Payne tells Daily Paws that indoor cats who are less active are more prone to “diabetes, obesity, arthritis and heart disease.” Cats who are let outside to exercise tend to experience less boredom and express fewer boredom-related negative behaviours, too. 

Payne says that outdoor cats face “a completely different set of problems,” suggesting that both inside and inside-outside living situations will come with risks to navigate.

Keeping Your Cat Indoors

The number one reason folks advocate for keeping cats indoors is safety. The Central California SPCA, for example, offers 3 main reasons to keep cats inside, all focused on the dangers your cat will face in the outside world. 

The first is the danger that your cat will fight with other animals or other cats. The second is that they could come in contact with diseases and pests. They note that according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, 300 cases of “human contact with rabid cats” are reported every year. The third is that your cat will be more prone to accidents like vehicle collisions when they’re outside. 

A second larger reason some people recommend keeping cats inside is for the health of local ecosystems. A much-discussed 2013 study published in Nature Communications estimates that “free-ranging domestic cats kill 1.3–4.0 billion birds and 6.3–22.3 billion mammals annually” in the U.S. 

That said, the study authors immediately note that “[u]n-owned cats, as opposed to owned pets, cause the majority of this mortality.” Assessing how murderous your own cat is could be a key factor in your decision whether to let them out regularly or to keep those killer instincts home.

Dr. Erich Barchas tells Catster that letting your cat outside is akin to smoking. Yes, he says, people sometimes smoke and live long and happy lives, but more often, it results in shorter lifespans and medical issues. 

He argues that any reason a cat owner might have for letting cats outside (boredom, exercise, etc.) can be addressed by making adjustments to the cat’s indoor environment.

Tips for Letting Your Cat Out Safely

First things first, check your local bylaws. Many cities and towns have rules that specify that cats must be kept inside. If you live in one of those areas, good news—the decision about whether to let your cat outside or not has been made for you.

It goes without saying that your cat should be microchipped, spayed or neutered and up to date on their vaccinations before you consider letting them outside. Not only is that responsible, but these basics will help reduce the risks associated with letting your cat outside, including the prospect of losing your cat.

The Battersea Dogs & Cats Home offers some suggestions for letting your cat out for the first time. For kittens, they suggest waiting until the kitten is 4 months old (and fixed and vaccinated). Adult cats, they say, should stay indoors for 4-6 weeks after you bring them home so they can adjust to their new home first.

Battersea suggests making your outdoor space exciting for your cat so they’ll stick close to home. They also highly recommend training your cat to come when called so you can get your cat back when you need them.

Supervise your cat when you first let them outside. Battersea recommends that you keep training your cat to come back when called. Allow your pet to come to you, get a treat, and go exploring again, so they don’t automatically think that coming in when you call means the end of outdoor play time.

Tips for Keeping Cats Indoors

For those leaning towards keeping their pets inside, think about enriching your home so your cat has a more stimulating environment to explore.

Cat perches by a window, or cardboard box castles to hide in, might make your home more interesting. Try interactive and puzzle feeders. They make your cat work for their meals, which both simulates hunting and helps slow eating down. 

Also get invested in playtime with your cats. This doesn’t have to be fancy or expensive. In fact, cats do not care how much toys cost, and are equally happy with a piece of string or a crumpled-up grocery receipt that you’ve tossed down the hallway as they are with a cutting-edge, research-backed, cat-ergonomic toy.

The point is to interact with them, and to give them an opportunity to chase, wrestle, pounce and engage in all the cat behaviours they need to express. You will need to mix all of this up, possibly daily, to keep your cat interested. Then again, if you own a cat, you probably expected that.

Written by Anne Elliot

Feature image: Monique Laats; Image 1: David Bartus

It’s probably never been more difficult to find a puppy. One of the stranger side effects of COVID-19 has been a huge uptick in the numbers of people wanting pets. That’s meant more animals being adopted from shelters, and long wait lists for breeders, who are facing more demand than ever.

Instead of waiting for the breeder of their choice to have a litter ready, more and more people are searching for other places that have puppies ready to go. Not all these places have the puppy’s best interests at heart. Here’s how to tell the difference between a good breeder and one who’s only in it for the money.

Puppy Mills and Backyard Breeders vs. Professional Breeders

There are a few different kinds of breeding businesses that you might run across when you’re searching for a puppy. Puppy mills are large commercial operations that make a profit by breeding and selling puppies. It’s a big industry with a deservedly bad reputation.

Dogs that come from puppy mills typically don’t receive vet care and can be kept in appalling conditions to keep costs down. Females are bred over and over to maximize the number of puppies they produce. When mothers get past breeding age, or when puppies are too sick to sell, these dogs are usually dumped or killed.

Backyard breeders and professional breeders are small operations who are also in the business of making money by breeding and selling puppies. Unlike professional breeders, however, backyard breeders might not be committed to, or even know about, the proper care of breeding parents and puppies.

The profit margins for breeding dogs ethically is actually very low. Responsible professional breeders soak up a lot of costs related to proper veterinary care: they breed fewer times per year to preserve the mother’s health, screen for genetic defects and don’t breed or sell dogs with defects. Those costs are reflected in the high price of a well-bred dog.

Breeders can earn a lot more money by cutting ethical corners, and the places backyard breeders seem to cut corners most are on screening for genetic problems and vet care.

How to Recognize Puppy Mills and Irresponsible Breeders

Be aware that puppy mills often sell to pet stores, so if you purchase a puppy from a store, you might unwittingly be supporting that industry. If a store can’t guarantee the puppies have come from a licensed, professional breeder, it’s safe to assume the store hasn’t sourced them ethically.

If you’re buying a puppy directly from a breeder, however, here are some things to watch out for.

The Facilities

Outdoor kennels that aren’t properly insulated or ventilated are a good indication of a puppy mill, as are cramped living conditions. A low person-to-dog ratio is another sign. When you visit the breeder, be on the lookout for dogs who are injured, sick or underweight.

Advertising

More subtle red flags are related to how the breeder advertises. If there’s usually a “puppies for sale” sign at the end of their driveway, if they always have ads online or if they advertise in the classifieds, that’s a sign they frequently (if not always) have puppies available, which means they’re probably not a responsible breeder and could be a puppy mill.

Reputable breeders don’t advertise, as a rule—they rely on word of mouth, and have their own websites.

The Dogs

The dogs themselves are more likely to be mixed breeds. If they’re advertised as being a single breed, the puppies and/or the parents might not look exactly like the breed should, according to breed standards. The puppies might be too young to be separated from their mothers (i.e. under 8 weeks). You might not be able to meet the parents at all.

If you do meet the puppy’s parents, watch how they interact with the breeder. If the puppies or parents are indifferent to the breeder’s presence, seem timid, frightened or withdrawn, that’s a red flag. Also watch out for dogs who are lethargic—this is a sign of untreated health issues.

Interactions with You

Finally, if the breeder doesn’t ask questions about you, that’s a huge warning sign. A responsible breeder will care where their dogs go, and will likely ask for references and for your regular veterinarian’s contact info. With a responsible breeder, you might feel like you’re interviewing to be allowed to bring a dog home, which is a good thing.

A backyard breeder or puppy mill is less likely to care—they’ll ask you when you’re picking the puppy up and how you’re paying, but not much more than that. They might offer to bring the puppy to you so you can’t visit their site.

10 Questions to Ask a Breeder

Any responsible breeder should be able to answer these questions and give you access to further information about themselves. If they can’t, or if they don’t have good answers, you’re probably not dealing with a reputable breeder.

1. Why did you choose to breed this kind of dog?

2. What’s the breed standard?

3. How old is the mom and how many litters has she produced?

4. What kinds of genetic screening were done on the parents?

5. How have the puppies been socialized?

6. Have the puppies been to the veterinarian’s yet?

7. Can I talk to your veterinarian?

8. Do you offer a health guarantee?

9. If an issue arises, will you take the puppy back?

10. Do you have references I can contact?

What to Do If You Happen on a Puppy Mill

It’s common to feel like you should purchase the puppy anyway because then you can rescue them from a bad situation. The problem is that regardless of your intent, once you give the breeder money, you’re funding their business model.

Instead, photograph whatever you can, document the time and date of your visit, and make a report to your local police and animal control office (or humane society). Follow up on your report and tell as many people as you can about your experience. The more puppy mills are exposed and exposed for what they are, the fewer people will be willing to buy puppies from them. And the sooner the industry can be made unprofitable, the sooner it will stop.

Written by Anne Elliot

Feature image: Kateryna Babaieva; Image 1: Helena Lopes